Whelping Pups:
Information about Having
Baby Puppies

A Service of the FoxNest Veterinary Hospital....Seneca, South Carolina...and the AnimalPetDoctor.com

My first draft comments about delivering puppies:

What To Expect:

The presence of milk usually is seen about 2-7 days prior to delivery so not too useful in predicting the due date.

The presence of a clear jelly like vaginal secretion is usually seen 1-3 days prior to delivery.

If you take the trouble of taking a rectal temperature for a few days prior to expected delivery, for some reason the rectal temperature goes from a normal 101.4 F down to about 99 F within 24 hours of delivery. Quite dependable! We have electronic thermometers for sale $7

Head first or butt first are both considered normal deliveries.
The time between delivering one pup and the next is quite variable, usually about 15-30 minutes, but it's pretty common to have several, and then a few more 4-24 hours later!
But, it's NOT normal for a pup to be in the actual birth canal for more than 10-15 minutes. If you can't get it out with a reasonable twist and tug...call a vet...there's probably something wrong. Wait too long and both momma dog and the pup(s) might die. Birth can be dangerous.

Once delivered, if the momma dog doesn't tear off the membrane surrounding the pup and lick it, then you need to tear it off. Then get any fluid out of the pup's mouth by gently swinging it upside down and gagging it with your finger a little. I like to suction out the back of their throat with a turkey baster. Rub the little pup vigorously until it cries a little. Tear off the umbilical cord with your fingers (if you cut it, it will bleed more) leaving about a inch attached to the belly. (if you tear it off flush, more likely to get infected etc). Leave some slime on the pup...when the momma licks off the slime it helps to create that wondrous bond of motherhood.

It's okay and pretty normal for the momma dog to ignore the first few pups while she's busy having the others. But on the other hand, it's a critical time for these pups. We need to get the pups free of their birth sacs and breathing in the first few minutes after delivery and nursing within the first couple hours. If you're not experienced, call your vet if this isn't happening.

If the pups are always crying, especially if there doesn't seem to be any milk; call your vet. At the very least, you will need to get some milk replacer. But there's often more going on...like a dangerous uterine infection.

It's common for the momma dog to have a little diarrhea or to vomit after the birthing process...all those hormone changes and all those placentas she ate, but if this lasts long, she's feverish, or not eating well after a day or so, call your vet...there's probably something wrong...like a dead undelivered pup inside.

By the way, if you're present at the birth, I like to throw the placentas away and not let the momma dog eat them, which is natural. It keeps her from getting an upset stomach and while protein rich and full of nourishing blood, she'll feel a lot better without the indigestion. But do leave at least some slimy stuff on the pups for her to lick off...it helps create the maternal bond.

Assuming momma dog and pups seem content and are cozy in whatever nesting situation you have them, there's not much you need to do those first couple of weeks after birth except enjoy and cuddle. But, here's a time table:

Day 1-2 after birth: if suspicious of a retained pup or anything else wrong; see your vet.

Day 14 or so: Deworm all the pups and momma too. The hormones of pregnancy stimulate worms that were previously dormant in muscle tissue to start their life cycle, get in the milk and infest the pups as well as the immune suppressed nursing momma. This is very inexpensive. $2/pup or $15 for a 1 ounce bottle of pyrantel dewormer that will treat about 20 pups or 10 pups and one mom.

Day 14 or so: Make a safe place for the pups to play and explore. Their eyes will be open by now and for the next few weeks, they're going to be a lot of trouble if you don't contain them somehow.

4-6 weeks old: Introduce them to mushy food and then to dry puppy food during this time with a normal goal of weaning off mom by 6 weeks old.

6-7 weeks old: Or within a few days of weaning if weaned earlier: First vaccines. And repeat deworming. This is the most dangerous time in their lives for parvo and other viral diseases. Their immune system is virginal and not very strong until at least 12 weeks of age. And they aren't getting protection from the antibodies in momma's milk anymore.

Not all vaccines are of the same quality. Many tested very poorly for the protection of parvo. And they need to be kept at the right temperature. Get your vaccines from a vet...not a mail order house. Plus, a good exam is highly recommended at this time.

Like many vets, we charge much less for a litter of pups getting first vaccines than we do for individual pups. We charge just $15 per pup for a brief exam, deworming, and first vaccines to include corona vaccine when you bring in a litter of 3 or more.

Week 6-10: The best time to introduce pups to new homes. There are psychological benefits to staying with mom and littermates to 6 weeks old, but after that they're ready to adapt to a new life. Remember to arrange for newspaper ads etc at least a good week in advance.

Momma dog needs a week or two to dry up her milk and get back to normal. She won't likely return into heat for at least another 5-8 weeks, but please consider getting her spayed unless a valuable breeder. We have too many puppies and not enough homes.







Whelping in the Bitch 
TEXTBOOK OF VETERINARY INTERNAL MEDICINE
Client Information Series; written by Drs Margaret V. Root Kustritz and Autumn P. Davidson


Whelping usually occurs with relatively few problems. Dogs can usually deliver their puppies with little help from owners. This sheet is intended to provide information to help you decide when an abnormality is present.

Most dogs whelp about 63 days after breeding (normal range, 58 to 71 days). To determine exactly when the dog is due, determine her first day of diestrus (day 1) with vaginal cytology and she will whelp on day 56, 57, or 58; alternatively, start taking your dog's rectal temperature two to four times daily, starting about 55 days after breeding.

To take your dog's rectal temperature, you can use a human oral thermometer. Lubricate it with a little petroleum jelly, make sure the thermometer bulb is totally within the anus, and leave it in for at least 1 minute. When the dog's temperature falls to below 100F (usually below 99F), she should begin to whelp within 24 hours and will probably begin in 4 to 6 hours.

You should have a place set aside for her that is warm and private. She may pick a place for herself and start nesting behavior there as she nears whelping. It is useful to have on hand clean towels, iodine, thread or dental floss, a postal or small food scale, vanilla ice cream, and your veterinarian's phone number.

Labor starts with a long stage in which the uterine contractions begin, the birth canal relaxes, and the cervix opens. The abdominal contractions may not be visible, but your dog may appear nervous or restless, pant, or vomit. This stage lasts 6 to 12 hours.

The second stage is the actual birth of the puppies. You will usually see fetal tissues protruding before you actually see a pup born. Remember, breech deliveries are normal.

The puppies are born covered by a membrane that the dog ruptures with her teeth. She also bites through the umbilical cord of each pup. Abdominal contractions are evident at this stage, but it is usually best to leave the bitch alone.

Dogs can voluntarily stop giving birth if they are disturbed, so you should make sure she is in a quiet place. When you first see the hard abdominal contractions signaling the second stage of labor, you should give your dog 2 hours to have the first pup.

Once you see fetal tissues protruding, she should have a pup within 30 minutes. When she starts delivering, allow 2 hours between pups. Most dogs have a pup every 30 to 60 minutes; some may have several and then rest a while before finishing. If you are unsure about whether whelping is progressing normally, please call your veterinarian.

The third and final stage of labor is that of expelling the placenta or afterbirth. The dog usually expels the placenta for each pup after it is born and some-times expels two placentas after delivering two pups. You should clean these away; there is no good physiologic reason for allowing the bitch to eat them. Trying to count these is notoriously unreliable, but you can try.

You may need to help the pups if the mother does not.

Do not try to pull a puppy if it appears to be stuck, as it is easy to harm the pups.

If the mother does not clean the pups, you should dry them with a towel, wipe clear all fluid from the nose and mouth, and rub the puppies vigorously. If the bitch does not sever the umbilical cord, you will have to do it. Wait for 5 to 10 minutes and then tie the umbilical cord in two places with thread or dental floss. The closest tie should be 1 to 2 inches from the pup's body. Cut between the two ties, dipping the end of the cord in iodine. Leave the pups with the bitch; even though she may not let them nurse, they need her warmth and physical contact.

Many bitches will eat a special treat such as vanilla ice cream while whelping. Vanilla ice cream is good for bitches during whelping as it provides energy and calcium.

After whelping is completed, make sure all the pups nurse within 12 to 18 hours. The first milk they receive is important in providing them with immunity to many common diseases. It is also important to make sure the puppies are warm enough; they should be kept in an environment at about 85F for the first several weeks of life. Be careful in your use of heating pads or heat lamps; it is easy to burn the pups.

The mother may have a green to red-brown vulva discharge for up to 3 weeks after whelping. This is normal and is of no concern as long as it is not foul smelling and she seems fine otherwise.

Inspect the mother's mammary glands daily to check for the presence of milk, any abnormal swellings, and pain. Please call you veterinarian if you have any concerns.

The puppies should be weighed at birth and daily thereafter. They may lose a small amount of weight the first day but should gain steadily after that, doubling their birth weight by 10 to 14 days of age.

Following is a checklist of reasons to call your veterinarian for help (also see the article on dystocia above):

The dog has started labor and is not progressing within the time limits just listed.

The rectal temperature dropped more than 24 hours ago and the dog has not                 started labor.

The dog appears ill, depressed, feverish, fatigued.

You have trouble getting the puppies to breathe early on or to suckle later.

You are not sure if the dog has finished whelping.

You have any particular concerns or questions.

A novel approach to canine obstetric monitoring involves the use of external monitoring devices to detect and record uterine activity and fetal heart rates.* These devices can be used in the home setting or the veterinary clinic to transmit recorded information by modem to obstetric personnel capable of interpretation and subsequent consultation with the attending veterinarian and owner. Sensors detect changes in intrauterine and intra-amniotic pressures, as well as Doppler monitoring of fetal heart rates.

The presence of normal prelabor uterine activity can be detected, often before behavioral clues exist, allowing recognition of stage I labor. Because the bitch's drop in body temperature can be missed, this detection of early labor can be valuable.

The use of uterine and fetal monitors allows the veterinarian to manage labor medically with knowledge of the presence of fetal distress and allows the administration of oxytocin and calcium to be directed and tailored to each bitch. Absolute indications for caesarian section could be detected with monitoring before fetal death or maternal compromise occurs. Overall, the anxiety level of breeders is diminished and the level of participation of the veterinarian improved. The cost to the client of monitoring is less than the price of one puppy.




HOME PAGE

On This Page

Instructions about delivering puppies

On Other Pages:


Introduction to Sex and Reproduction in Dogs & Cats

Dystocia (problems with delivery)

Newborn Care for Puppies and Kittens

Momma Dogs who won't nurse.  Agalactia (no milk) 

Mastitis (infection of the mammary glands)

Pyometra (infection of the uterus)

False Pregnancy

Undescended Testicles

Birth Control Alternatives to Spaying
and Castration

Brucellosis This disease causes abortions.  This serious disease is also contagious to humans and other mammals.

Reproductive Surgery:

Spays (Ovariohysterectomies) in Dogs, Cats, and Other Pets

C Sections
Includes an interesting short history about a women doctor pretending to be a man performing the first modern C Section

Castration in Dogs, Cats, and Other Pets.  Includes recipes for Rocky Mountain Oysters, Montana Tendergroins, and Swinging Beef.  What Viagra is made from.

On Other Pages about other topics:

Declawing Cats

Ear Cropping

Debarking

Cancer and Mass Removal

Fracture Repair

Abdominal Surgery

Using the Omentum

Soft Tissue Surgery

Referral Veterinarians, Specialists, and Veterinary Colleges at your service

Hernia Surgery

About the Treatment of Injuries, Abscess', ETC

Tuberculosis, Plague, and Brucellosis. Pasteurella, Encephalitis, Samonella, e-coli, and Cryptosporidium: a brief review of these zoonotic diseases that you can get from pets


Diseases people get from pets from mosquitos, fleas, ticks, and lice
malaria, yellow fever, encephalitis, plague, heartworms, Rift Valley Fever, Lymes Disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Tick Paralysis, Monkey Pox, etc

Denistry: why oral hygiene and health is so important and what you can do about it

Dermatology: How I treat skin diseases in pets

Orthopedics: How I treat arthritis, pannus, hip dysplasia, and other problems of the bones and joints

Ear problems and the miracle treatment Zymox

Ophthalmology: Eye Problems discussed

Diseases of the blood

Metabolic Diseases like Diabetes, Cushings Disease, Addison's Disease, and Thyroid Disease

Cardiology: Heart problems in cats and dogs

History of Veterinary Medicine in the United States


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Our Nutrition Page
Guidelines and comments about delivery:

The presence of milk usually is seen about 2-7 days prior to delivery so not too useful in predicting the due date.
The presence of a clear jelly like vaginal secretion is usually seen 1-3 days prior to delivery.

If you take the trouble of taking a rectal temperature for a few days prior to expected delivery, for some reason the rectal temperature goes from a normal 101.4 F down to about 99 F within 24 hours of delivery. Quite dependable! We have electronic thermometers for sale $7

Head first or butt first are both considered normal deliveries.
The time between delivering one pup and the next is quite variable, usually about 15-30 minutes, but it's pretty common to have several, and then a few more 4-24 hours later!
But, it's NOT normal for a pup to be in the actual birth canal for more than 10-15 minutes. If you can't get it out with a reasonable twist and tug...call a vet...there's probably something wrong. Wait too long and both momma dog and the pup(s) might die. Birth can be dangerous.

Once delivered, if the momma dog doesn't tear off the membrane surrounding the pup and lick it, then you need to tear it off. Then get any fluid out of the pup's mouth by gently swinging it upside down and gagging it with your finger a little. I like to suction out the back of their throat with a turkey baster. Rub the little pup vigorously until it cries a little. Tear off the umbilical cord with your fingers (if you cut it, it will bleed more) leaving about a inch attached to the belly. (if you tear it off flush, more likely to get infected etc). Leave some slime on the pup...when the momma licks off the slime it helps to create that wonderous bond of motherhood.

It's okay and pretty normal for the momma dog to ignore the first few pups while she's busy having the others. But on the other hand, it's a critical time for these pups. We need to get the pups free of their birth sacs and breathing in the first few minutes after delivery and nursing within the first couple hours. If you're not experienced, call your vet if this isn't happening.

If the pups are always crying, especially if there doesn't seem to be any milk; call your vet. At the very least, you will need to get some milk replacer. But there's often more going on...like a dangerous uterine infection.

It's common for the momma dog to have a little diarrhea or to vomit after the birthing process...all those hormone changes and all those placentas she ate, but if this lasts long, she's feverish, or not eating well after a day or so, call your vet...there's probably something wrong...like a dead undelivered pup inside.

By the way, if you're present at the birth, I like to throw the placentas away and not let the momma dog eat them, which is natural. It keeps her from getting an upset stomach and while protein rich and full of nurishing blood, she'll feel a lot better without the indigestion. But do leave at least some slimy stuff on the pups for her to lick off...it helps create the maternal bond.

Assuming momma dog and pups seem content and are cozy in whatever nesting situation you have them, there's not much you need to do those first couple of weeks after birth except enjoy and cuddle. But, here's a time table:

Day 1-2 after birth: if suspicious of a retained pup or anything else wrong; see your vet.

Day 14 or so: Deworm all the pups and momma too. The hormones of pregnancy stimulate worms that were previously dormant in muscle tissue to start their life cycle, get in the milk and infest the pups as well as the immune suppressed nursing momma. This is very inexpensive. $2/pup or $15 for a 1 ounce bottle of pyrantel dewormer that will treat about 20 pups or 10 pups and one mom.

Day 14 or so: Make a safe place for the pups to play and explore. Their eyes will be open by now and for the next few weeks, they're going to be a lot of trouble if you don't contain them somehow.

4-6 weeks old: Introduce them to mushy food and then to dry puppy food during this time with a normal goal of weaning off mom by 6 weeks old.

6-7 weeks old: Or within a few days of weaning if weaned earlier: First vaccines. And repeat deworming. This is the most dangerous time in their lives for parvo and other viral diseases. Their immune system is virginal and not very strong until at least 12 weeks of age. And they aren't getting protection from the antibodies in momma's milk anymore.

Not all vaccines are of the same quality. Many tested very poorly for the protection of parvo. And they need to be kept at the right temperature. Get your vaccines from a vet...not a mail order house. Plus, a good exam is highly recommended at this time.

Like many vets, we charge much less for a litter of pups getting first vaccines than we do for individual pups. We charge just $15 per pup for a brief exam, deworming, and first vaccines to include corona vaccine when you bring in a litter of 3 or more.

Week 6-10: The best time to introduce pups to new homes. There are psychological benefits to staying with mom and littermates to 6 weeks old, but after that they're ready to adapt to a new life. Remember to arrange for newspaper ads etc at least a good week in advance.

Momma dog needs a week or two to dry up her milk and get back to normal. She won't likely return into heat for at least another 5-8 weeks, but please consider getting her spayed unless a valuable breeder. We have too many puppies and not enough homes.