God's Earth is full of fascinating creatures, large and small.
I urge restraint; not all living things are suitable for pets or domestication.
On the other hand, there are lots of intriguing pets out there other than cats and dogs. These include larger animals such a llamas and pet pigs, but on this page, I'm going to my comments to what we in the veterinary profession refer to as "pocket pets".
This page originally had a few paragraphs about each of the different types of "pocket pets", but I've since added enough to warrant separate pages. Please click on the pet of interest. Thanks, Roger Ross, DVM
Hamsters
Gerbils
Reptiles
Birds
I just wanted to pass this homemade recipe for getting rid of the skunk smell on a pet should it ever have a stinky encounter with a skunk.
1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide (from the drug store)
1/4 cup baking soda
1 tablespoon liquid soap
Using a 2 quart bowl, mix together the baking soda and the hydrogen peroxide. Stir until dissolved then mix in the soap. Pour into a spray bottle and apply mixture liberally to pets coat, avoiding the eyes and mouth. Rub it in well then wait 15 minutes. Rinse completely with tap water and towel dry. This is non-toxic when used externally. Use a fresh batch for each occasion.
This works very well and is easy and in-expensive. Please pass it along.
Thanks Lora Adams
Lead Poisoning in Birds
Lead poisoning is the most commonly reported poisoning of pet and wild birds. Lead toxicosis not only occurs in urban areas, but in rural and suburban neighborhoods as well. Clinical signs of poisoning vary and depend on how much lead is ingested by the bird.
Signs include the following:
·
Loss of appetite, listlessness, and weakness
·Loose droppings, sometimes abnormally colored (eg, pink, tan, black, or bloody)
·Vomiting and increased thirst
·Neurologic signs including blindness, incoordination, lameness, and seizures
Diagnosis of lead toxicosis is made by measuring blood lead concentration. This is a simple test requiring small amounts of blood. Radiographs may be helpful in making the diagnosis and determining the duration of treatment by revealing lead particles in the gastrointestinal tract.
If lead poisoning is suspected because of clinical signs and radiographs, treatment should begin immediately. Treatment consists of injectable medication for 5 or more days and supportive care. Test results to confirm the diagnosis of lead toxicosis are usually available in 2 to 3 days after a sample is submitted. If diagnosed early, treatment is usually successful, but the prognosis is guarded.
Take preventative measures to remove all potential sources of lead from your pet's environment. Cage all birds when they are unsupervised. Some items that contain lead and may be found in the bird's environment include the following:
Hardware: old paint, plaster, galvanized wire, putty, solder, and batteries
Houseware: drapery weights, ceramic dishware, and costume jewelry
Furniture: tiffany lamps, stained glass, mirrors, and wrought iron welding
Sporting goods: fishing weights and shotgun pellets
Care of the Captive Green Iguana
Most problems seen in pet reptiles result from improper caging, feeding, and lighting. The green iguana (Iguana iguana) is one of the most popular reptile species kept as a pet and, unfortunately, one of the least understood.
The green iguana is an arboreal (tree dwelling), leaf-eating herbivore naturally found in Mexico and Central and South America. It is a basking lizard that thrives in daytime temperatures near 100 F. Green iguanas are strict vegetarians from hatching through adulthood and do not eat insects or mice at any time during their development.
In captivity, iguanas grow rapidly (30 to 60 cm/year) and reach adult size in 2 to 3 years if properly cared for. They need large tanks or enclosures to accommodate this growth. Like most reptiles, iguanas are solitary species and should be housed as individuals. Dominance and aggression can result in severe injuries or poor growth for the subordinant lizard. Lizards should not be allowed to roam free in the house, because they will not receive adequate heat or ultraviolet light, and they are prone to eating foreign matter (eg, coins and hair).
Substrate
Cage floor covering comes in a variety of materials. An ideal substrate should be inexpensive, easy to clean, digestible if eaten, and pleasant to look at. Newspaper works well, but indoor/outdoor carpeting (ie, astroturf) is more aesthetic and it is easy to clean and disinfect. Alfalfa pellets (rabbit food) can also be used. Avoid using sand, corncob, gravel, shavings, and small wood chips, because iguanas will eat these and can develop mouth abrasions and gastrointestinal impactions. Also, these materials are difficult to keep clean and can harbor bacteria and fungi.
Lighting
Lighting is very important to basking lizards such as the iguana. The full spectrum of natural light provided by the the sun plays an integral role in vitamin synthesis and calcium metabolism. UVB (wavelength 290-320 nm) is necessary for vitamin D activation in the skin. Unfiltered sunlight (not through glass or plastic) is always the best source of ultraviolet radiation and, when outside temperatures are above 70 F, the iguana should be exposed to direct sunlight. Indoor ultraviolet lighting is important in the cold months. Black light (BL type) fluorescent bulbs (General Electric), Vita-lit fluorescent tubes (Durotest, Lyndhurst, NJ) and Chromalux bulbs (Valentine Equipment Company, Chicago) are good choices. Plant grow lights or black light bulb (BLB) tubes for psychedelic posters do not work. The ultraviolet lights must be located within 18 inches of the lizard and should be left on for 10 to 12 hours per day and turned off at night. These bulbs lose their ultraviolet radiation in time and should be replaced once a year, even though they continue to give off light.
Supplemental Heat
Captive green iguanas need supplemental heat. Iguanas must live in their preferred optimal temperature range for metabolic processes such digestion, growth, healing and immune system function to operative. Temperature ranges during the day should be 85 to 95 F and not less than 75 F at night. A temperature gradient within the enclosure is recommended, with a focal hot spot or basking area of 95 to 100 F. An incandescent or infrared bulb placed outside of the cage works well. Be careful not to burn the iguana; it should not be able to get too close to the heat source, ie, no closer than 12 to 18 inches. Use thermometers to measure the temperature of both the cage bottom as well as the top of any climbing branch within the enclosure. Hot rocks do not work and are not recommended. Iguanas also need humidity; do not let the tank get too dry (or too damp). Daily light misting with a water spray bottle helps to raise humidity.
Diet
Green iguanas are strict herbivores and, in the wild, eat a diet of leaves and vines. Captive iguanas should be fed a diet consisting of 80% vegetables and 20% fruit chopped into small pieces and mixed together. High protein supplements like dog, cat, or monkey chow can cause kidney problems and should not be given, even to juveniles. Dark leafy greens high in calcium and low in phosphorus should make up most of the diet; good choices include collard, mustard, and dandelion greens, Swiss chard, escarole, spinach, parsley, and watercress. Apples, grapes, melons, papaya, kiwi, and strawberries can be fed in small amounts. Bananas and iceberg lettuce are not recommended. The key to success is a wide variety of food. Juvenile iguanas less than 1 year old can be fed daily, and adults can skip meals 1 or 2 days a week. Be careful with commercially prepared diets; not all of these have been properly tested, and no one product should be relied on as a sole food. Water bowls large and heavy enough for the iguana to climb into should be provided.
Vitamins and Minerals
Vitamins and minerals can be added to the diets of iguanas. Care must be taken not to overdose with supplements, especially those containing phosphorus and vitamin D3. Use vitamins sparingly (ie, once or twice a week). Calcium can be supplemented in the form of powdered calcium carbonate, lactate, or gluconate. Cuttlebone shavings work well. Sprinkle calcium lightly on food 2 to 3 times weekly. Do not use a calcium product that contains vitamin D3 or phosphorus
Diagonstic Testing in Exotic Pets
Laboratory tests are very important in the examination of birds and other exotic pets. They provide necessary information about your pet's health. The following is a description of some of them.
Complete Blood Count (CBC): measures the number and type of red and white blood cells. A CBC is useful in detecting anemia, infection, inflammation, and certain types of cancer.
Serum or Plasma Biochemical Analysis: measures the biochemical elements in the blood such as glucose, calcium, total protein, organ enzymes, uric acid, and electrolytes. The purpose is to test the function of major organ systems such as the liver and kidneys.
Electrophoresis (EPH): measures the specific amounts of plasma proteins in the blood. This helps determine if the immune system is responding to infection.
Fecal Examination or Microscopic Examination of a Stool Sample: determines whether your pet has parasites in the intestinal tract. Special stains can be done (eg, Gram's stain) to evaluate the bacterial population and to identify overgrowth of yeast.
Culture and Sensitivity: refers to the growing of organisms (ie, bacteria and fungi) on special media in petrie dishes and then identifying them to determine their pathogenicity (ie, whether they are harmful to your pet). The organisms are then tested to determine which drugs would be effective against them.
Virus Testing: tests which detect several viruses in birds. Examples include tests for polyomavirus and beak and feather virus. However, results must be interpreted carefully in light of other clinical findings.
Psittacosis: a disease in birds caused by the bacteria Chylamydia psittaci. Several methods of testing for this disease are available, but no one test is definitive. Thus, several tests are usually done when this disease is suspected.
Heavy Metals: refers to testing for toxic metals such as lead and zinc in the blood. Lead poisoning is one of the most common toxicities seen, especially in birds, rabbits, and iguanas.
