Reproduction and sex in dogs and cats

That's not the intention of my comments in the treatment sections of this web site and I think you would be foolish in most cases to treat your pets based on what you read on my site.

In fact, I hope it will become obvious in the treatment discussion just how complex coming up with a diagnosis can be.

In addition to the educational background that veterinarians have, it takes seeing 10 plus cases a day for years to get really good at figuring out what's wrong and what will be needed to get the case under control.

The intention of these treatment pages is to give you an idea of what to expect if your pet has a problem and even better; to give you an outline of the main points you have discussed or considered with me or your vet during the exam.

Another intention of the treatment comments is to instill in you, the pet owner, the idea that while many cases are straight forward and respond well to our chosen initial treatment, there are lots of exceptions...not because the veterinary work was shoddy...but because the nature of curing disease depends on so many factors.

All my treatment comments include options for a reason; there is no one set best way to treat every case.

And all my comments leave open the possible need of referring to another vet, usually a specialist, because no vet has all the answers or equipment or expertise needed for every case.

And lastly; Trust your veterinarian...the vast majority are extremely dedicated and talented people with you and your pet's best interest at heart.

Pet Microchips & ID

Hundreds of pet are taken to the shelter and often killed partly because they don't have identification when found lost, wandering, or causing trouble.

Pet Identifiaction is very important and so easy:

Rabies tag: this tag is free when you have your pet vaccinated (as you must legally do so by 6 months of age). Put it on your pet. It has your veterinarian's phone number on it and a rabies number that allows us to look up who the owner is.

We do this several times a week at our clinic.

We also have a variety of custom id tags for sale at the clinic. Reflective ones, ones that you look into a miniature viewer to see a hugh microfish page of information, and ones that you write on with a special pen and then bake in the oven for 30 minutes to make them smaller and durable. We have all shapes and colors.

You can also order tags through the internet, including the flat kind that rivet onto collars.

You can also get your pet registered on the Web for $7. Go to awolpet.com.

They'll send you an id tag with both a toll free phone number and a website address where people who find your pet can look up your name and address and phone # or whatever information you want at any hour.

One of the neat features here is that it's easy to change your address and phone # or any other information when you move or change your last name without getting a new tag. So, if you move to a new town where the information on the rabies tag would be useless, you're covered.

For an extra $1, you can also register a Microchip at awolpet.com.

Microchips:

It's now the law in many states that shelters have to scan a pet to see if it has a microchip, so hopefully as microchip insertion becomes more and more common fewer and fewer pets will be destroyed and more and more will be returned to their homes.

Except for being a little expensive ($25 plus either an $8 or $12 registration fee) everything else is simple.

The microchip is so small, all I have to do in inject it under the skin like a vaccine. All you have to do is mail or register your pet's information over the internet with either The American Kennel Club ($12) or AwolPet ($8).

This is an especially good idea for cats and tiny dogs that don't or won't normally wear collars. Also wise for valuable pets and pets that travel much.

Imagine this: there's talk that soon they'll be able to hook these microchips up to GPS satellite, and for a fee, they'll tell you where your pet is. Wow.

Ever wonder about those people who spend

$2.00 apiece on those little bottles of

Evian water?

Try spelling Evian backwards.

If 4 out of 5 people SUFFER from diarrhea...

does that mean that one enjoys it?

The Bible contains six admonishments to

homosexuals and 326 admonishments

to heterosexuals.

That doesn't mean God doesn't love

heterosexuals -

He just thinks they need more supervision.

"I am" is reportedly the shortest sentence

in the English language.

Could it be that- "I do" is the longest sentence?

Why do we say something is out of whack?

What's a whack?

Why do croutons come in airtight packages?

It's just stale bread to begin with.

When someone asks you,

A penny for your thoughts,

and you put your two cents in,

what happens to the other penny?

Why is the man (or woman) who invests

all your money called a broker?

When cheese gets it's picture taken,

what does it say?

Why isn't 11 pronounced onety one?

If lawyers are disbarred and clergymen defrocked,

doesn't it follow that: electricians can be delighted,

musicians denoted?

If Fed Ex and UPS were to merge,

would they call it Fed UP?

Why do they put pictures of criminals

up in the Post Office? What are we

supposed to do, Write To Them?

Why don't they just put their pictures on

the postage stamps,-

so the mailmen could look for them

while they delivered the mail?

If it's true that we are here to help others,

then what exactly are the others here for?

Last night I played a blank tape at full blast.

The mime next door went nuts.

Why do overlook and oversee,-

mean Opposite things?

8 WAYS TO KNOW IF YOU HAVE "ESTROGEN ISSUES"

1. Everyone around you has an attitude problem.

2. You're adding chocolate chips to your cheese omelet.

3. The dryer has shrunk every last pair of your jeans.

4. Your husband is suddenly agreeing to everything you say.

5. You're using your cellular phone to dial up every bumper sticker

that says "How's my driving-call 1-800-***-."

6. Everyone's head looks like an invitation to batting-practice.

7. You're sure that everyone is scheming to drive you crazy.

8. The ibuprofen bottle is empty and you bought it yesterday.

This is a fun subject. Lots of discussion, articles, treatment comments, links and information about sex, reproduction, and the associated problems that occur in pets.

Reproduction in Dogs:

Introductory Comments

Dogs are a little like humans when it comes to sex... males are willing any time, any place, but the females only "wants to" when it suits them. Hey, it's not easy making all this medical stuff from being boring.

Sexually mature female dogs have an estrus cycle or heat...that period of time when they ovulate, are receptive to male dogs, and can get pregnant...every 4-12 months. The average is every 7 months, but it's quite variable.

This period known as being in heat lasts about 3 weeks, but that too, is just an average. For practical reasons we divide the heat into 3 parts, each part lasting, on average, about 1 week:

Week 1: (Proestrus) The female vulva swells and secretes blood and aromas that drive males into frenzies and on a humid night will attract them from miles around. I'm not sure whether the smell travels so far or whether there's a communication system of jungle drums at work. The female may act moody during this stage to both people and other dogs, swinging from affectionate to "snappy" and seem to like to "tease" the males cruelly: they'll lift their tail to allow a sniff, but will bite the male's head off if he tries to mount.

If a male successfully breeds a female during this time, she is unlikely to get pregnant if you want her to, but could get pregnant if you don't want her to. Does that make sense? Well, it's a joke. But it's somewhat true. The sperm could survive in the vaginal/uterine tract until the female ovulates.

Week 2: (Estrus) During this week, where the female is in true estrus, her vulva will still be swollen, but her vaginal discharge will usually stop having visible blood in it, she will ovulate, and will usually let the male...often any and all males... mount her. And assuming no underlying problems, she will probably become pregnant. Possibly from multiple males; in other words, each puppy in the litter could have a different daddy.

This period, while on average, about a week long, can be much shorter or longer.

Things can go wrong; see below.

Week 3: (diestrus) During the last stage of being in heat, the female has already ovulated and is losing interest in sex, but the male(s) will still be determined. She is not likely to allow mounting and if forced to breed is not as likely to get pregnant.

The Tie: Unlike cat sex, which is a wham bam deal, dogs take their time, and once a male successfully penetrates the female (in an inexperienced male this may take some time or even some guidence from a human) there is a bulbous gland at the base of the penis that swells locking it into the vagina. To get more comfortable, the male will usually do a little dance step over the rump of the female and end up facing away from her...this is called the "tie" and naturally lasts about 3-20 minutes. Both the male and female will often have a very special look on their faces.

If you catch a pair of dogs in a tie, you can cause injury to both the male and female genitals and probably get bitten besides, if you try to pull them apart. Drenching the pair with cold water usually works, but alas, it's probably too late to prevent an unwanted pregnancy.

Dogs can get cystic ovaries and all manner of other female problems..if the female dog is in heat much longer than normal, or false pregnant for more that 70 days suspect that something's wrong and get to your vet.

Infections of the uterus (especially after abortions or birth), bladder or other part of the urinary-genital tract are not uncommon. Uterine infections are very serious.

There is a reproductive disease that is especially important called canine brucellosis...there aren't usually any symptoms in the adult dogs, but if either of the dogs are positive for this sexually transmitted disease, there is a higher chance of infertility or abortion. Serious breeders require that both the male and female be tested first. We have an in house lab test with results within an hour or so; $25

We can spay your dog if she's in heat, but we should really try to avoid it. And it costs more. The hormones of heat (estrogen) prevent clotting and healing. And the uterus and ovaries are larger, full of throbbing blood vessels, and are very fragile (easily torn) when in heat. When not in heat, the sex organs are much easier and safer to remove with a minimum of bleeding and trauma. Expensive post op care and possible death are much more likely if your dog is spayed while in heat. Plan Ahead!

Breeding Tips:

Take the female to the male's territory (house) if possible...the male will be more emotionally secure.

Do you believe this? Males insecure?

Well, yes, it turns out some males, especially if inexperienced, are a little unsure of themselves in the presence of a demanding female.

Put the female in with the male starting the second week. If they breed within an hour or so, fine, record the date as first breeding. If they don't breed, return in one to two days and try again. For maximum chances of getting pregnant, allow at least 2 breedings.

If they refuse to breed, consider another male, or if the female is bulking, consider a visit to the vet to confirm what stage of estrus she's in. She may need a mild sedative or restraint. Or she may have a more serious problem. Or it could easily be the male who has the problem. It seems the more you want a successful breeding the more likely something will screw it up.

If the breeding of 2 particular dogs is of great importance to you and there have been previous problems with either of the partners, we vets have all the same fantastic reproductive tests and clinics for reproduction available to humans...it's just a matter of going to a reproductive specialist who has all the needed equipment and experience. For our area, the best place is the Veterinary College at the University of Georgia.

Once a female is bred, her period of pregnancy is normally 62 days give or take 5 days. Lots can go wrong during this time. Fevers, poor nutrition, stress, viral infections, dehydratrion, brucellosis, heat stress, and bacterial infections are all possible causes of abortions and miscarraiges. Parasites are especially stressful and more likely to be a problem too, since the hormones of pregnancy reduce a female's immune system and resistance. And while it's more important than ever to control worms and fleas etc when a dog is pregnant, you also have to be more careful about which chemicals are safe. Don't dink around...ask your vet.

There isn't an inexpensive and accurate blood test yet to see if your dog is pregnant. And it's very difficult to be sure by feel. Even an experienced veterinarian has trouble telling before day 25.

UPDATE: as of May 2001: We now have an accurate blood test for canine pregnancy.

It's pretty accurate after day 21 and very accurate after day 28. Cost for the test is $25.

We can see the the little fetal pups on X ray, but only after day 42 when their little bones calcify. Most people need to know sooner if they need to know at all.

Many people (and vets) are fooled by false pregnancy: Many females produce so much progesterone (also known as the hormone of pregnancy) after being in heat that they look and act pregnant. They bloat out and swell. They make nests. They sometimes leak milk. But come day 62 or so, no babies, their milk dries up and they go back to normal. Usually.

Make sure you're supplying good nutrition. In the few months prior to delivery, and all during nursing, I recommend a high quality diet plus additional vitamins. Expect both food and water intake to go way up, especially during nursing.

As far as the delivery goes, here are some guidelines and comments:

The presence of milk usually is seen about 2-7 days prior to delivery so not too useful in predicting the due date.

The presence of a clear jelly like vaginal secretion is usually seen 1-3 days prior to delivery.

If you take the trouble of taking a rectal temperature for a few days prior to expected delivery, for some reason the rectal temperature goes from a normal 101.4 F down to about 99 F within 24 hours of delivery. Quite dependable! We have electronic thermometers for sale $7

Head first or butt first are both considered normal deliveries.

The time between delivering one pup and the next is quite variable, usually about 15-30 minutes, but it's pretty common to have several, and then a few more 4-24 hours later!

But, it's NOT normal for a pup to be in the actual birth canal for more than 10-15 minutes. If you can't get it out with a reasonable twist and tug...call a vet...there's probably something wrong. Wait too long and both momma dog and the pup(s) might die. Birth can be dangerous.

Once delivered, if the momma dog doesn't tear off the membrane surrounding the pup and lick it, then you need to tear it off. Then get any fluid out of the pup's mouth by gently swinging it upside down and gagging it with your finger a little. I like to suction out the back of their throat with a turkey baster. Rub the little pup vigorously until it cries a little. Tear off the umbilical cord with your fingers (if you cut it, it will bleed more) leaving about a inch attached to the belly. (if you tear it off flush, more likely to get infected etc). Leave some slime on the pup...when the momma licks off the slime it helps to create that wonderous bond of motherhood.

It's okay and pretty normal for the momma dog to ignore the first few pups while she's busy having the others. But on the other hand, it's a critical time for these pups. We need to get the pups free of their birth sacs and breathing in the first few minutes after delivery and nursing within the first couple hours. If you're not experienced, call your vet if this isn't happening.

If the pups are always crying, especially if there doesn't seem to be any milk; call your vet. At the very least, you will need to get some milk replacer. But there's often more going on...like a dangerous uterine infection.

It's common for the momma dog to have a little diarrhea or to vomit after the birthing process...all those hormone changes and all those placentas she ate, but if this lasts long, she's feverish, or not eating well after a day or so, call your vet...there's probably something wrong...like a dead undelivered pup inside.

By the way, if you're present at the birth, I like to throw the placentas away and not let the momma dog eat them, which is natural. It keeps her from getting an upset stomach and while protein rich and full of nurishing blood, she'll feel a lot better without the indigestion. But do leave at least some slimy stuff on the pups for her to lick off...it helps create the maternal bond.

Assuming momma dog and pups seem content and are cozy in whatever nesting situation you have them, there's not much you need to do those first couple of weeks after birth except enjoy and cuddle. But, here's a time table:

Day 1-2 after birth: if suspicious of a retained pup or anything else wrong; see your vet.

Day 14 or so: Deworm all the pups and momma too. The hormones of pregnancy stimulate worms that were previously dormant in muscle tissue to start their life cycle, get in the milk and infest the pups as well as the immune suppressed nursing momma. This is very inexpensive. $2/pup or $15 for a 1 ounce bottle of pyrantel dewormer that will treat about 20 pups or 10 pups and one mom.

Day 14 or so: Make a safe place for the pups to play and explore. Their eyes will be open by now and for the next few weeks, they're going to be a lot of trouble if you don't contain them somehow.

4-6 weeks old: Introduce them to mushy food and then to dry puppy food during this time with a normal goal of weaning off mom by 6 weeks old.

6-7 weeks old: Or within a few days of weaning if weaned earlier: First vaccines. And repeat deworming. This is the most dangerous time in their lives for parvo and other viral diseases. Their immune system is virginal and not very strong until at least 12 weeks of age. And they aren't getting protection from the antibodies in momma's milk anymore.

Not all vaccines are of the same quality. Many tested very poorly for the protection of parvo. And they need to be kept at the right temperature. Get your vaccines from a vet...not a mail order house. Plus, a good exam is highly recommended at this time.

Like many vets, we charge much less for a litter of pups getting first vaccines than we do for individual pups. We charge just $15 per pup for a brief exam, deworming, and first vaccines to include corona vaccine when you bring in a litter of 3 or more.

Week 6-10: The best time to introduce pups to new homes. There are psychological benefits to staying with mom and littermates to 6 weeks old, but after that they're ready to adapt to a new life. Remember to arrange for newspaper ads etc at least a good week in advance.

Momma dog needs a week or two to dry up her milk and get back to normal. She won't likely return into heat for at least another 5-8 weeks, but please consider getting her spayed unless a valuable breeder. We have too many puppies and not enough homes.

Brucellosis

I apologize about the poor organization of this site, but please click here to go to my page on infectious diseases to read my article about Brucellosis which causes abortions and male sterility in dogs.

Whelping in the Bitch

TEXTBOOK OF VETERINARY INTERNAL MEDICINE

Client Information Series; written by Drs Margaret V. Root Kustritz and Autumn P. Davidson

Whelping usually occurs with relatively few problems. Dogs can usually deliver their puppies with little help from owners. This sheet is intended to provide information to help you decide when an abnormality is present.

Most dogs whelp about 63 days after breeding (normal range, 58 to 71 days). To determine exactly when the dog is due, determine her first day of diestrus (day 1) with vaginal cytology and she will whelp on day 56, 57, or 58; alternatively, start taking your dog's rectal temperature two to four times daily, starting about 55 days after breeding.

To take your dog's rectal temperature, you can use a human oral thermometer. Lubricate it with a little petroleum jelly, make sure the thermometer bulb is totally within the anus, and leave it in for at least 1 minute. When the dog's temperature falls to below 1000F (usually below 990F), she should begin to whelp within 24 hours and will probably begin in 4 to 6 hours.

You should have a place set aside for her that is warm and private. She may pick a place for herself and start nesting behavior there as she nears whelping. It is useful to have on hand clean towels, iodine, thread or dental floss, a postal or small food scale, vanilla ice cream, and your veterinarian's phone number.

Labor starts with a long stage in which the uterine contrac-tions begin, the birth canal relaxes, and the cervix opens. The abdominal contractions may not be visible, but your dog may appear nervous or restless, pant, or vomit. This stage lasts 6 to 12 hours. The second stage is the actual birth of the puppies. You will usually see fetal tissues protruding before you actually see a pup born. Remember, breech deliveries are normal.

The puppies are born covered by a membrane that the dog ruptures with her teeth. She also bites through the umbilical cord of each pup. Abdominal contractions are evident at this stage, but it is usually best to leave the bitch alone. Dogs can voluntarily stop giving birth if they are disturbed, so you should make sure she is in a quiet place. When you first see the hard abdominal contractions signaling the second stage of labor, you should give your dog 2 hours to have the first pup.

Once you see fetal tissues protruding, she should have a pup within 30 minutes. When she starts delivering, allow 2 hours between pups. Most dogs have a pup every 30 to 60 minutes; some may have several and then rest a while before finishing. If you are unsure about whether whelping is progressing normally, please call your veterinarian.

The third and final stage of labor is that of expelling the placenta or afterbirth. The dog usually expels the placenta for each pup after it is born and some-times expels two placentas after delivering two pups. You should clean these away; there is no good physiologic reason for allowing the bitch to eat them. Trying to count these is notoriously unreliable, but you can try.

You may need to help the pups if the mother does not. Do not try to pull a puppy if it appears to be stuck, as it is easy to harm the pups. If the mother does not clean the pups, you should dry them with a towel, wipe clear all fluid from the nose and mouth, and rub the puppies vigorously. If the bitch does not sever the umbilical cord, you will have to do it. Wait for 5 to 10 minutes and then tie the umbilical cord in two places with thread or dental floss. The closest tie should be 1 to 2 inches from the pup's body. Cut between the two ties, dipping the end of the cord in iodine. Leave the pups with the bitch; even though she may not let them nurse, they need her warmth and physical contact.

Many bitches will eat a special treat such as vanilla ice cream while whelping. Vanilla ice cream is good for bitches during whelping as it provides energy and calcium.

After whelping is completed, make sure all the pups nurse within 12 to 18 hours. The first milk they receive is important in providing them with immunity to many common diseases. It is also important to make sure the puppies are warm enough; they should be kept in an environment at about 85F for the first several weeks of life. Be careful in your use of heating pads or heat lamps; it is easy to burn the pups.

The mother may have a green to red-brown vulvar discharge for up to 3 weeks after whelping. This is normal and is of no concern as long as it is not foul smelling and she seems fine otherwise. Inspect the mother's mammary glands daily to check for the presence of milk, any abnormal swellings, and pain. Please call you veterinarian if you have any concerns.

The puppies should be weighed at birth and daily thereafter. They may lose a small amount of weight the first day but should gain steadily after that, doubling their birth weight by 10 to 14 days of age.

Following is a checklist of reasons to call your veterinarian for help (also see the article on dystocia above):

The dog has started labor and is not progressing within the time limits just listed.

The rectal temperature dropped more than 24 hours ago and the dog has not started labor.

The dog appears ill, depressed, feverish, fatigued.

You have trouble getting the puppies to breathe early on or to suckle later.

You are not sure if the dog has finished whelping.

You have any particular concerns or questions.

A novel approach to canine obstetric monitoring involves the use of external monitoring devices to detect and record uterine activity and fetal heart rates.* These devices can be used in the home setting or the veterinary clinic to transmit recorded information by modem to obstetric personnel capable of interpretation and subsequent consultation with the attending veterinarian and owner. Sensors detect changes in intrauterine and intra-amniotic pressures, as well as Doppler monitoring of fetal heart rates.

The presence of normal prelabor uterine activity can be detected, often before behavioral clues exist, allowing recognition of stage I labor. Because the bitch's drop in body temperature can be missed, this detection of early labor can be valuable.

The use of uterine and fetal monitors allows the veterinarian to manage labor medically with knowledge of the presence of fetal distress and allows the administration of oxytocin and cal-cium to be directed and tailored to each bitch. Absolute indications for cesarian section could be detected with moni-toring before fetal death or maternal compromise occurs. Overall, the anxiety level of breeders is diminished and the level of participation of the veterinarian improved. The cost to the client of monitoring is less than the