This is a fun subject. Lots of discussion, articles, treatment comments, links and information about sex, reproduction, and the associated problems that occur in pets.
Reproduction in Dogs:
Introductory Comments
Dogs are a little like humans when it comes to sex... males are willing any time, any place, but the females only "wants to" when it suits them. Hey, it's not easy making all this medical stuff from being boring.
Sexually mature female dogs have an estrus cycle or heat...that period of time when they ovulate, are receptive to male dogs, and can get pregnant...every 4-12 months. The average is every 7 months, but it's quite variable.
This period known as being in heat lasts about 3 weeks, but that too, is just an average. For practical reasons we divide the heat into 3 parts, each part lasting, on average, about 1 week:
Week 1: (Proestrus) The female vulva swells and secretes blood and aromas that drive males into frenzies and on a humid night will attract them from miles around. I'm not sure whether the smell travels so far or whether there's a communication system of jungle drums at work. The female may act moody during this stage to both people and other dogs, swinging from affectionate to "snappy" and seem to like to "tease" the males cruelly: they'll lift their tail to allow a sniff, but will bite the male's head off if he tries to mount.
If a male successfully breeds a female during this time, she is unlikely to get pregnant if you want her to, but could get pregnant if you don't want her to. Does that make sense? Well, it's a joke. But it's somewhat true. The sperm could survive in the vaginal/uterine tract until the female ovulates.
Week 2: (Estrus) During this week, where the female is in true estrus, her vulva will still be swollen, but her vaginal discharge will usually stop having visible blood in it, she will ovulate, and will usually let the male...often any and all males... mount her. And assuming no underlying problems, she will probably become pregnant. Possibly from multiple males; in other words, each puppy in the litter could have a different daddy.
This period, while on average, about a week long, can be much shorter or longer.
Things can go wrong; see below.
Week 3: (diestrus) During the last stage of being in heat, the female has already ovulated and is losing interest in sex, but the male(s) will still be determined. She is not likely to allow mounting and if forced to breed is not as likely to get pregnant.
The Tie: Unlike cat sex, which is a wham bam deal, dogs take their time, and once a male successfully penetrates the female (in an inexperienced male this may take some time or even some guidence from a human) there is a bulbous gland at the base of the penis that swells locking it into the vagina. To get more comfortable, the male will usually do a little dance step over the rump of the female and end up facing away from her...this is called the "tie" and naturally lasts about 3-20 minutes. Both the male and female will often have a very special look on their faces.
If you catch a pair of dogs in a tie, you can cause injury to both the male and female genitals and probably get bitten besides, if you try to pull them apart. Drenching the pair with cold water usually works, but alas, it's probably too late to prevent an unwanted pregnancy.
Dogs can get cystic ovaries and all manner of other female problems..if the female dog is in heat much longer than normal, or false pregnant for more that 70 days suspect that something's wrong and get to your vet.
Infections of the uterus (especially after abortions or birth), bladder or other part of the urinary-genital tract are not uncommon. Uterine infections are very serious.
There is a reproductive disease that is especially important called canine brucellosis...there aren't usually any symptoms in the adult dogs, but if either of the dogs are positive for this sexually transmitted disease, there is a higher chance of infertility or abortion. Serious breeders require that both the male and female be tested first. We have an in house lab test with results within an hour or so; $25
We can spay your dog if she's in heat, but we should really try to avoid it. And it costs more. The hormones of heat (estrogen) prevent clotting and healing. And the uterus and ovaries are larger, full of throbbing blood vessels, and are very fragile (easily torn) when in heat. When not in heat, the sex organs are much easier and safer to remove with a minimum of bleeding and trauma. Expensive post op care and possible death are much more likely if your dog is spayed while in heat. Plan Ahead!
Breeding Tips:
Take the female to the male's territory (house) if possible...the male will be more emotionally secure.
Do you believe this? Males insecure?
Well, yes, it turns out some males, especially if inexperienced, are a little unsure of themselves in the presence of a demanding female.
Put the female in with the male starting the second week. If they breed within an hour or so, fine, record the date as first breeding. If they don't breed, return in one to two days and try again. For maximum chances of getting pregnant, allow at least 2 breedings.
If they refuse to breed, consider another male, or if the female is bulking, consider a visit to the vet to confirm what stage of estrus she's in. She may need a mild sedative or restraint. Or she may have a more serious problem. Or it could easily be the male who has the problem. It seems the more you want a successful breeding the more likely something will screw it up.
If the breeding of 2 particular dogs is of great importance to you and there have been previous problems with either of the partners, we vets have all the same fantastic reproductive tests and clinics for reproduction available to humans...it's just a matter of going to a reproductive specialist who has all the needed equipment and experience. For our area, the best place is the Veterinary College at the University of Georgia.
Once a female is bred, her period of pregnancy is normally 62 days give or take 5 days. Lots can go wrong during this time. Fevers, poor nutrition, stress, viral infections, dehydratrion, brucellosis, heat stress, and bacterial infections are all possible causes of abortions and miscarraiges. Parasites are especially stressful and more likely to be a problem too, since the hormones of pregnancy reduce a female's immune system and resistance. And while it's more important than ever to control worms and fleas etc when a dog is pregnant, you also have to be more careful about which chemicals are safe. Don't dink around...ask your vet.
There isn't an inexpensive and accurate blood test yet to see if your dog is pregnant. And it's very difficult to be sure by feel. Even an experienced veterinarian has trouble telling before day 25.
UPDATE: as of May 2001: We now have an accurate blood test for canine pregnancy.
It's pretty accurate after day 21 and very accurate after day 28. Cost for the test is $25.
We can see the the little fetal pups on X ray, but only after day 42 when their little bones calcify. Most people need to know sooner if they need to know at all.
Many people (and vets) are fooled by false pregnancy: Many females produce so much progesterone (also known as the hormone of pregnancy) after being in heat that they look and act pregnant. They bloat out and swell. They make nests. They sometimes leak milk. But come day 62 or so, no babies, their milk dries up and they go back to normal. Usually.
Make sure you're supplying good nutrition. In the few months prior to delivery, and all during nursing, I recommend a high quality diet plus additional vitamins. Expect both food and water intake to go way up, especially during nursing.
As far as the delivery goes, here are some guidelines and comments:
The presence of milk usually is seen about 2-7 days prior to delivery so not too useful in predicting the due date.
The presence of a clear jelly like vaginal secretion is usually seen 1-3 days prior to delivery.
If you take the trouble of taking a rectal temperature for a few days prior to expected delivery, for some reason the rectal temperature goes from a normal 101.4 F down to about 99 F within 24 hours of delivery. Quite dependable! We have electronic thermometers for sale $7
Head first or butt first are both considered normal deliveries.
The time between delivering one pup and the next is quite variable, usually about 15-30 minutes, but it's pretty common to have several, and then a few more 4-24 hours later!
But, it's NOT normal for a pup to be in the actual birth canal for more than 10-15 minutes. If you can't get it out with a reasonable twist and tug...call a vet...there's probably something wrong. Wait too long and both momma dog and the pup(s) might die. Birth can be dangerous.
Once delivered, if the momma dog doesn't tear off the membrane surrounding the pup and lick it, then you need to tear it off. Then get any fluid out of the pup's mouth by gently swinging it upside down and gagging it with your finger a little. I like to suction out the back of their throat with a turkey baster. Rub the little pup vigorously until it cries a little. Tear off the umbilical cord with your fingers (if you cut it, it will bleed more) leaving about a inch attached to the belly. (if you tear it off flush, more likely to get infected etc). Leave some slime on the pup...when the momma licks off the slime it helps to create that wonderous bond of motherhood.
It's okay and pretty normal for the momma dog to ignore the first few pups while she's busy having the others. But on the other hand, it's a critical time for these pups. We need to get the pups free of their birth sacs and breathing in the first few minutes after delivery and nursing within the first couple hours. If you're not experienced, call your vet if this isn't happening.
If the pups are always crying, especially if there doesn't seem to be any milk; call your vet. At the very least, you will need to get some milk replacer. But there's often more going on...like a dangerous uterine infection.
It's common for the momma dog to have a little diarrhea or to vomit after the birthing process...all those hormone changes and all those placentas she ate, but if this lasts long, she's feverish, or not eating well after a day or so, call your vet...there's probably something wrong...like a dead undelivered pup inside.
By the way, if you're present at the birth, I like to throw the placentas away and not let the momma dog eat them, which is natural. It keeps her from getting an upset stomach and while protein rich and full of nurishing blood, she'll feel a lot better without the indigestion. But do leave at least some slimy stuff on the pups for her to lick off...it helps create the maternal bond.
Assuming momma dog and pups seem content and are cozy in whatever nesting situation you have them, there's not much you need to do those first couple of weeks after birth except enjoy and cuddle. But, here's a time table:
Day 1-2 after birth: if suspicious of a retained pup or anything else wrong; see your vet.
Day 14 or so: Deworm all the pups and momma too. The hormones of pregnancy stimulate worms that were previously dormant in muscle tissue to start their life cycle, get in the milk and infest the pups as well as the immune suppressed nursing momma. This is very inexpensive. $2/pup or $15 for a 1 ounce bottle of pyrantel dewormer that will treat about 20 pups or 10 pups and one mom.
Day 14 or so: Make a safe place for the pups to play and explore. Their eyes will be open by now and for the next few weeks, they're going to be a lot of trouble if you don't contain them somehow.
4-6 weeks old: Introduce them to mushy food and then to dry puppy food during this time with a normal goal of weaning off mom by 6 weeks old.
6-7 weeks old: Or within a few days of weaning if weaned earlier: First vaccines. And repeat deworming. This is the most dangerous time in their lives for parvo and other viral diseases. Their immune system is virginal and not very strong until at least 12 weeks of age. And they aren't getting protection from the antibodies in momma's milk anymore.
Not all vaccines are of the same quality. Many tested very poorly for the protection of parvo. And they need to be kept at the right temperature. Get your vaccines from a vet...not a mail order house. Plus, a good exam is highly recommended at this time.
Like many vets, we charge much less for a litter of pups getting first vaccines than we do for individual pups. We charge just $15 per pup for a brief exam, deworming, and first vaccines to include corona vaccine when you bring in a litter of 3 or more.
Week 6-10: The best time to introduce pups to new homes. There are psychological benefits to staying with mom and littermates to 6 weeks old, but after that they're ready to adapt to a new life. Remember to arrange for newspaper ads etc at least a good week in advance.
Momma dog needs a week or two to dry up her milk and get back to normal. She won't likely return into heat for at least another 5-8 weeks, but please consider getting her spayed unless a valuable breeder. We have too many puppies and not enough homes.
